"I don't want the clothes to be the life. I want the
clothes to help the life," said Kanye West after the presentation of his
highly-anticipated adidas collection in New York on February 12. It’s a new
sentiment given the high-priced, luxury women’s collections West
had previously brought to the runway—a new philosophical approach that sees
clothing as a means to "absolve consumers of dressing's daily stress by
creating a line of high-quality essentials that can be freely combined in
infinite ways—'like Legos,'" he added.
Doesn't this sound like the mission statement of a company
like Gap?
While Gap crushed their competition in the late '90s and
early '00s by cornering the market on fashionably basic items, the rise of
fast-fashion retailers like Zara, H&M, and Uniqlo, alongside mid-priced
fashion brands like J.Crew and Club Monaco, pulled away Gap's customer.
This turned Gap from a go-to for affordable options into a bland basics
brand unable to offer customers the range of upscale-casual, "cool"
clothing that other brands could.
To set itself apart in 2015 and beyond, Gap needs not only
well designed clothing, it needs products that, on a deeper level, make
customers feel like they exist to improve their lives. And it seems like West’s
open to revamping Gap if they’ll give him a real chance to, telling
Style.com, "One of my dreams was to be the head creative
director of the Gap. I’d like to be the Steve Jobs of the Gap… I’m not talking
about a capsule. I’m talking about full Hedi Slimane creative control of the
Gap."
Comparing himself to Steve Jobs, West famously
said, "I am undoubtedly, you know, Steve of Internet, downtown,
fashion, culture. Period." His aspiration to do what Steve Jobs did for
fashion—making luxury and technological innovation accessible to the masses—is
the basis of West’s newfound direction into clothing meant to be worn
"from the gym to the office to a meeting to the airport and everywhere in
between."
The elements of ease and accessibility in West’s adidas
collection, which he called the world's first "solutions-based"
clothing line, are applicable to Gap’s products. Both Kanye West and Gap
are humbly trying to produce basics that shoppers can not only afford, but be
proud to wear. Gap is essentially the perfect platform for West to fix
the world's pant leg.
Gap Creative Director Rebekka
Bay's recent departure should be an indication that focusing strictly on design
won't turn Gap around. Her pedigree at COS
(one of Gap's market share rivals) made her a formidable, impressive talent,
but Gap's long-term success isn't just about minimalist, modern clothing
design; it needs to be perceived by its customers as "cool" and
useful to their lives again.
BOTH KANYE WEST AND GAP ARE HUMBLY TRYING TO
PRODUCE BASICS THAT SHOPPERS CAN NOT ONLY AFFORD, BUT BE PROUD TO WEAR. GAP IS
ESSENTIALLY THE PERFECT PLATFORM FOR WEST TO FIX THE WORLD'S
PANT LEG.
The problem with designing for Gap is changing the brand's
design aesthetic without alienating its core customers (read: middle America).
Rebekka Bay focused on improving smaller details to make sales. Before her,
Patrick Robinson was trying to push his particular vision through his design.
Robinson wanted to reinvent the brand in a modern context. While fashion
critics were excited by this, corporate
higher-ups didn't buy into it, and neither did customers.
Gap needs to change both the product and how people
perceive the brand. Love him or hate him, when Kanye West aligns himself with a
brand, like he recently did with A.P.C., the public pays attention and customers
flock. The Yeezy Boost sneaker he debuted with adidas, retailing for $350,
has been fetching
re-sale prices on eBay between $1,000 - $5,000—a clear indicator of the
influence his products have in the marketplace. While West would likely attempt
a design overhaul at Gap like Robinson, he has the clout, charisma, and direct
connection to popular culture that would make these changes appealing to the
public. More than anything else, West preaches an inclusive fashion philosophy
that defends the place of basics in our closet and their function to help us
get by in our day-to-day lives.
As West told Style.com, he wants full creative
control of Gap, which is the kind of bold offering a company like Gap would
need to offer to yield real, forward-thinking change. There’s a reason he
referenced Hedi Slimane, creative director of Saint Laurent, when talking about
the kind of power he wants at Gap. In the three years since Hedi joined the
company (and
famously changed its name), he
has doubled the company’s revenue. Giving full control and resources to a
visionary like Slimane guarantees the best possible results. West’s proven that
his influence and beliefs would position him to do the same for Gap.
Gap needs to be cool to its current and potential customers
again. In Kanye West’s collaborations with adidas and A.P.C., he's proven he
can take wardrobe staples like basic
tees,
military outwear, and denim
to a higher level—in design, perception, and ultimately desire. If Gap were to
give West the ability to be their creative director, he could overhaul their
product offering into lusted-after pieces, based on the strength of his
influence and for-the-people fashion philosophy.
As Kanye said in his Power 105.1
interview, "I know what my generation wants, but it's very difficult
when you don't have the production experience."
Besides achieving his passion-driven design goals, Kanye
himself would benefit from working with Gap in a way that he hasn’t been able
to in his fashion career thus far. He talked to Power 105.1
last week about the difficulty of providing for the masses without the built-in
infrastructure to do so. He said, "I know what my generation wants, but
it's very difficult when you don't have the production experience." Not
only does Gap have the factories and production system in place, they have over
1,700 stores worldwide, which would provide an ideal incubator and testing
ground for his ideas.
People want to dress in a way that fuels their confidence
and reflects either their spending power or their sense of style despite
financial limitations. Kanye also told the press that he wants his clothing to
provide consumers with "a worldliness and an ease." If Kanye can
apply his philosophy of ease and access to Gap, he will reinvigorate their
designs and positively change the way people see them in the marketplace. Gap
should give Kanye a real shot at proving his ability to influence their brand
for the best.
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